As usual, SignatureStop premium members can download the signature PSD in our premium section!

This is the wallpaper we are going to use, which you can find at the following link. However I encourage you all to find one of your own wallpapers to create your signature. This tutorial will teach you mainly how to create a detailed textured background, so do not worry too much about selecting your source. You could potentially even use a render cutout without a background, and create the background from scratch as we will be covering all of the soldiers anyway:

A little sidenote: even though I try to be really detailed in my tutorial, I leave out a few essential basics such as creating new layers, which I expect you to know before you start. However because of a new photoshop version I am using (CS 5.5) I will still show you what the tools look like.

Place your wallpaper on a new canvas, the size we picked for our signature is 440 by 190 pixels. We’re going to use the blur tool to make our character stand out in the signature. Grab the Blur Tool, as shown below:

Blurring tool used on the Helghast soldiers next to our focal point:

Using the brush tool, we will make our focal point stand out by using a black soft brush, we will make the background nearly invisible. Don’t worry about covering the main character in black, we will be erasing it in the following step.

Here’s the brushing we did on the canvas:

Or shown below, here is the brushing on a white background to make it more clear exactly what we did:

Using the eraser tool, we will remove the black brushing covering our character. We will use a technique a bit more sophisticated than simply click-drag removing, called airbrushing. First, select the eraser tool as shown below (or press E):

Now reduce the opacity on the toolbar on top, make sure you select the airbrush button. The longer you hold your mouse click, the more your brush will erase:

This is the brushing after we’ve removed some of it, shown on a white background:

We’re going to repeat this step with some grey brushing, grab a brush tool a a greyish color to brush over the background and sides of the signature:

This is the grey brushing done shown on a black background to clarify:

At this point the character is getting quite blended in, and it is time to start making lighting and details. We will be using the brush and smudge tool to create the desired effect. It’s not very simple to explain the smudge technique, basically it requires experimenting, and no outcome will be the same. What I suggest though is while smudging, you switch around the brushes. First, start by brushing some low opacity white colored dots next to your focal point:

This is what our brushing looks like on a black background:

We will now be using the smudge tool. (Here are some other tutorials in which we use the smudge tool, if you want to practise the techniques: kickflip signature tutorial, smudge tool tag tutorial. ) Grab the smudge tool:

This is the smudging we did , keep trying until you are satisfied, and use the eraser tool if the lighting is covering the focal point:

This is the result of our smudging, if you like you can experiment with the layer settings, you could set it to Color Dodge or perhaps Overlay. We’ve kept it on normal however:

We are going to do the same on the left side of the character, now with a different color however. You can use the Eyedropper tool (Press E) to select a color from your render to use. We’ve used the red color inside his helghast logo, and brushed a little around his shoulder. Play around with the opacity and airbrush settings:

We’ve smudged the red brushing, and tried to have it twirl around the character:

Change the layer settings to Color Dodge. This depends however on the color that you’ve chosen to create the effect with, you might not get the desired color by changing it to color dodge. Experiment with the settings:

This is our outcome after changing the layer to color dodge:

We will be repeating this step a few times, until we have a colory detailed effect around our focal point. Do not worry too much about which color to pick, as we will be using Adjustment Layers later on in the process the change the colors anyway. Yellow smudging (with the layer style set to Hue):

Blue smudging on the left side of the killzone signature:

White smudging on top, repeat these steps until the signature starts to have some texture and detail:

We will now be finishining the texture on the left side of the signature by using the Liquify tool. This requires a lot of experimenting and practise to receive a good result, and has to potentially be repeated a few times to get something to look good. Start the process by creating a new layer, and applying the image by going to Image > Apply Image:

We’re going to be taking all of the color out of the part of the signature that is not covering our focal point. Press CTRL + U or go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation, and change the Saturation to -100. You could also change the Lightness if you’d like:

Now erase the greyscale that is covering our focal point (Press E), don’t bother being very precies as the liquifying filter in the next step will take care of it:

Go to Filter > Liquify, or press Shift + CTRL + X:

Play around with the liquify options, use all the different settings. If you feel you have overdone it, you can use the Reconstruct Tool (2nd from the Top). We’ve mainly used the Twirl Clockwise and the Mirror Tool to create our outcome, these tools are highlighted in the following picture:

Our outcome, this may take a few times to repeat and practise to get it right, is shown below. The liquify filture has made our primary texture, and we will be using the Dodge and burn tool from this point on to improve it:

Select the Dodge tool, and start softly brushing around the twirls. Switch up the Burn tool in and outside of the bubbles to create a form of depth in the texture. Be creative, and switch around a lot. Make sure you duplicate layers and keep backups in case you feel you’re overdoing it:

This is the dodging and burning shown in a few different steps, keep going until you are satisfied:

First we started highlighting the in and outsides of the bubbly twirls:

Now we’ve moved on to the background and right side of our focal point, creating a darker atmosphere:

The final touchups of the burn and dodge tool, making the twirls and bubbles stand out of the backgorund:

As we’ve covered quite a bit of the smudging we did in earlier steps, we’re going to be creating some more. Scroll up if you’d like to see more examples of how the smudging should be done. We will be covering our blue beam of smudging first, with a bright red color:

After smudging, this is our result shown on a black background:

You can set the Blending mode to Color Dodge, however we decided to keep it on Normal:

Repeat this step a few times until you are satisfied, dont be afraid to overdo it as you can always erase it later. We’ve done some more blue smudging:

With the layers Blending mode set to Color Dodge:

Purple smudging on the sig:

With the blending mode set to Color Dodge, by this point we have probably created enough effects around our focal point. Try creating up to 5 or 6 if you are not satisfied. Once again, do not worry too much about the use of the colors, we can fix this later on with adjustment layers:

Let’s focus on the background a little bit, we will be covering some of the twirls that look good with bright brushing, and we will play around with opacity and blending modes to get desired effects. Here we started by brushing red and blue colors over our liquified textures:

Play around with the opacity and blending modes, for example set it to overlay, color dodge or reduce the opacity slightly:

Orange brushing covering the twirls:

More orange, blue and red brushing, with various blending modes (overlay and color dodge):

Set the Layers blending mode to Overlay:

The left and right side were standing out a little bit too much, so we are going to brush with a soft brush like we did when we started the tutorial to make the focal point stand out. There is no real rule to where you brush, as long as you reduce the opacity properly:

We have reduced the opacity of the black brushing to 30%, and we have also set the layer style to Overlay:

We are now nearly finished with detailing our background, it is time to move on to the proper coloring. There’s different ways to approach this, the easiest way to reach a good looking result is by using Adjustment layers. We start by using a Selective Color, go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Selective Color:

The settings we have used in our signature will be potentially horrible on different color schemes / backgrounds, however as an example of how to do it, here’s an animation of our settings. Please post a comment if the picture moves too fast and I will elaborate on the settings:

Our result at this point:

This could potentially be an outcome for your signature, as it starts to look really great. We’ve added some touches with the sharpen, soften, dodge and burn tool here and there, and created this outcome so far. If you like you could place your text somewhere in your signature now:

To make the signature blend a little better however we’ve decided to add another Selective Color adjustment layer and a Color Balance adjustment layer as finishing touches. Below are the settings for the selective color layer, and the color balance layer. These are simply indications of possible settings, they might or might not work on different color schemes however, so I encourage you once again to be creative and pick your own settings. An animation showing the selective color layer:

This gave us the following outcome, nearly finished:

The color balance adjustment layer (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance):

This leaves us with just the text to put in, there are people that prefer to leave the text out alltogether as it can potentially ruin a perfectly good signature. We’ve used simple text with the layer style set to Overlay, with lowered opacity. Watch out to not overdo the text, and play around with fonts and font sizes:

Our final signature outcome with the font set to overlay and 80% opacity will conclude this Killzone Photoshop signature tutorial:

hopefully you’ve enjoyed the killzone 3 signature tutorial. Premium Members can download the PSD file in the premium section. Good luck everyone!

Outcome of the large piece tutorial:

Create a new file (File > New), and select your favourite settings. We’ve picked 800 pixels by 447 pixels:

Add a background texture, we’ve picked this photo of a stoney and grassy texture (Try This DeviantArt for stock photos for large pieces):

Reduce the fill of this texture to 17%, you do this by setting it down on your layer panel which is in the bottom right corner of your screen by default:

By reducing the fill a lot, your background should be similar to this:

We’re going to use a picture of this old newspaper. We’re going to resize it, and flip it over vertically. First, grab an old retro picture (Download one of these retro stock papers), and paste it on your canvas:

Then, select Edit > Transform > 90 degrees ClockWise or CounterClockWise:

Now Flip it vertically, by selecting Edit > Transform > Flip Vertical:

We’re going to chop a part out of the newspaper, make a selection with the rectangular marquee tool and press delete:

Change the layers blending mode to Multiply in the layer panel, and reduce the fill a little bit:

This is what our current large piece looks like:

Now find a good looking render that you’d like to use, we’ve used the skeleton model that is going to be the center piece of our artwork. You can find skeleton stock pieces here, or elsewhere on deviantart. Place it into your large piece, and resize it properly. You can do this by pressing CTRL + T.

We’re going to put three skeletons on top of eachother, and change the color of each skeleton with the use of Color Overlay. First, select Layer > Duplicate Layer:

Then, select Color Overlay by pressing the fx button on your layer panel, or by going Layer > Layer Style > Color Overlay:

The following settings were used to give the skeleton a white color:

Outcome of the skeleton:

Duplicate this white skeleton layer:

Go back to the color overlay, and change the white color to another bright color, we’ve used a greenish blue:

Now with the blue skeleton layer selected, tap the arrow keys on your keyboard. It’s up to you to pick a direction, we’ve set it 2 pixels down, and 2 pixels to the left:

Place the original skeleton model on top (like shown below in the picture), and with the arrow keys once again move it a little to the same direction that you moved the blue skeleton to:

This is what the three skeleton layers now look like:

Duplicate the original skeleton layer (Layer > Duplicate Layer):

Then Press CTRL + T (or select Edit > Free Transform) to change its size, and rotate it forward a little bit:

This is the outcome after rotating the skeleton:

We’re going to repeat the previous process, except we’re going to put the blue one at the bottom this time. Duplicate the skeletons, use the Color Overlay function, and nudge them a few pixels to the right and bottom:

White color overlay settings:

This is what your result should look like in the following order;

Blue Color Overlay:

White Color Overlay:

Outcome after putting the third skeleton back on top without a color overlay:

Repeat this same process with a third model, rotated and decreased in size once again, placed a little more to the right overlapping the second skeleton like shown in the large piece below:

We’re going to use a picture of this old television to cover up their heads, and to give it an awesome retro look. We will then cut out the screen, and put an old image on top. You can copy this image, or use a model of your own. Remember, you’re not limited to a television, you can use basicly anything. A fish bowl perhaps, or the face of some celebrity. Be creative!

Try being creative with the objects you’re using. Ours was placed as followed:

We’re going to use a retro picture to fill up the television screen. Find a nice picture, this 50′s stock images pack has a nice compilation of retro images. Place it on top of the television screen. By using layer masks, we will carefully place the retro poster inside in the next few steps:

Select Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All:

Now grab the pen tool, and select the following settings:

Toolbar settings:

Create anchor points, and create a section that covers the television screen. however, using the pen tool may require some practise, don’t give up if you don’t get it the first time.

We’re going to create a selection from the anchor points we created with the pen tool. We can do this by going to Paths on the layer window, and creating a selection from the work path. Select Paths, then right click the Work Path and press Make Selection:

We have to fill the selection with white, it will turn our selected area in our layer mask visible again. Select the Paint Bucket Tool, and fill the selection with White:

This is what it should look like on your layer window:

This is what our result looks like. If you dont like the position, you can select the layer and move it around underneath the layer mask.

Now Select your television layer, and duplicate it. We’re going to cover the other skeletons with television screens as well, duplicate the previous steps, and use the Free Transform tool (by pressing CTRL + T or by going to Edit > Transform> Free Transform):

Our result after duplicating the television:

By clicking on the layer next to the layer mask on the layer window, we can move the retro picture on the television to show the different characters:

Duplicate the proces on the other skeleton until you are satisfied, try to variate the sizes, angles and maybe even use different images instead of the television, be creative.

Cut out with the pen tool, create a selection in the Paths window again, and place your character inside the screen.

We’re nearly done with the large piece, all that’s left now is adjusting levels and textures and add finishing touches. If you’ve created your own artwork with different retro pictures, the following layer adjustment settings might not work out. You should use settings that will make your images blend in together a little. To create a Levels Adjustment layer, you can click the little black and white circle on the layer panel and pick Levels, or select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Levels.

Here’s an animation showing our settings of the Levels adjustment layer.

This is the result of the adjustment layer. As you can see, the retro pictures now blend in together properly. Don’t be afraid to use multiple adjustment layers to make the images blend.

To create final texture, we add a starry space stock image on top of the picture. You can find plenty of nice sky imagery on DeviantArt stock pages, here’s a stock image of a sky space you can use. Place it on top of your image, and use the eraser tool to remove some parts that are too bright or detailed. Our outcome:

Now set this layer to lighten on the layer panel. If this setting doesn’t look good on your piece, experiment with the layer settings:

Our outcome after setting the layer to Lighten:

We’re going to finish the piece by adding details and extra imagery on the large piece, try to make it look good. We’ve made it appear as if the birds were flying out of his hands. The birds were made by the use of bird brushes, but anything works:

We’re adding a light bulb stock inside his hand, and with the use of the Free Transform tool (Edit > Transform > Free Transform or CTRL + T) we can rotate and change the size to match the size of the hand.

We’re going to use a soft brush to create a light spot on top of the light bulb. Select a light yellowish color (We picked #FFFDC6), and tap once on top of the light bulb. This is the brush shown on a black background:

If you want a more transparant lightbulb you can experiment with the layer style, set it to Lighten perhaps. This is our result, with the layer style kept on normal:

We need some more detail in the light grey area, and are going to fill this up with a fractal render. Find a good fractal render (Try these, however make sure you have the right to use them), and place it on top of the picture. Resize it, and place it somewhere nice.

Now set the fractals layer style to exclusion. If this doesn’t look good on your large piece, experiment with the settings.

our result after placing the fractal:

The right side is still a bit empty, so we’re going to duplicate the fractal and put it on the right side:

Set to exclusion again:

We’re adding another render effect on top of the lightbulb to enhance the lighting effect. Use your eraser tool properly, and change the layer styles to whatever looks best. Ours was set to Lighten:

The result:

This brings us to our final result, we’ve sharpened some areas. This is easily done by applying the image on a new layer (Image > Apply Image), then using the sharpen tool. Alternately, you could just select Filter > Sharpen, however this will sharpen the entire large piece and might not be the best option. Our outcome:

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. You can download the PSD File, and much more in our Premium section!

First of all, the Chronus Crusade signature (2 versions) created by Castro:

Download this signature.

The Full Metal Alchemist (?) signature, created by Roroni:

Download this signature.

This Sprite signature, created by nfx:

Download this signature.

What’s next?

I have several signatures that I am considering to write about. I plan to have it finished by next week. I would also like to write about another large piece artwork. I have my eye on a good looking retro piece that I will post an update about this week or the next. Would you like even more signature PSD files? The premium section holds extra PSDs, tutorials, and more! sign up now!

Start by creating a new file, the size was set to 385 pixels by 110 pixels:

Place the render you want to use (we used the Final Fantasy render that can be downloaded here) on your canvas. Don’t resize it yet, we will use this to create a background.

Select Filter > Liquify, and use the swirl tool to transform the render. Using the liquify tool we can create a nice signature background:

We’ve covered the left part of the signature:

Duplicate the layer , and move it around to fill the entire signature with the liquified final fantasy character:

We will be using this cinema4d render. You can easily make the cinema4d renders color match the color of the final fantasy or whatever render you selected by using a Hue/Saturation adjustment. Press CTRL + U, and change the Hue around (make sure you didn’t check Colorize, the outcome will not look as good).

This is the render shown on the signature:

Change the blending mode to Lighten:

Add your render on the signature, on top of the cinema4drender:

Duplicate the cinema4d render, and move it to the side and over your final fantasy character,

Change the blending mode of this layer to Lighten as well:

Using the render, we will create more detail with the Liquify filter. Add the render on top again:

Select Filter > Liquify, and use the eraser tool to remove some parts of the character:

We’ve only kept the right side, going over her shoulder:

Add the cinema4d render on top again. We’re going to create some detail to the left of the character:

Erase everything that covers the final fantasy character, by CTRL + Clicking on the layer image:

Delete and erase the render:

Repeat this step a few times, add detail around your character by placing the cinema4d render on top and erasing it:

Change the blending mode of the cinema4d render to Lighten:

Create a few light sources by using the eyedropper tool, and tap with a soft brush underneath your character:

Change the blending mode to Screen:

Use the eyedropper tool again to select a color from your character. Then using splatter brushes, tap once or twice or twice on your signature.

Select a contrasting color, and brush on the signature again:

We’re going to blur some parts of the signature by using the Blur Tool. To do this, first we have to apply the image on a new layer by selecting Imaeg > Apply Image:

Select the Blur tool:

Use the blur tool to create depth on the signature, you can do this by keeping the focal point untouched, and gradually blurring to the sides of the signature:

We’re going to add some more depth by changing the lighting. First, Apply the image on a new layer again:

Then press CTRL + U to bring up the Hue/Saturation window. Now, drag the Lightness bar down:

This will darken your image, our result shown below:

Grab the eraser tool, and erase around your focal point. Make sure you select a soft brush, and play around with the opacity to achieve the best looking result:

Outcome after fixing the depth:

We’re going to add a light source underneath the final fantasy render again. Use the eyedropper tool to select a color from your signature, and tap with a soft brush once or twice underneath your character:

Change the blending mode of the brushing to either Screen or Lighten:

Time for your finishing touches, optionally you can sharpen with the shrapen tool, add some more splattering, or your text. This brings us to our final result:

We hope you’ve enjoyed this signature tutorial. Premium members can download the PSD file in the premium section. Optionally, you can join for as low as 6 dollars! Feel free to ask questions or comment about the result!

How did we decide the winner?

All 3 judges had 6 points to give out, 3 to their favourite signature, 2 to the second, and 1 to their third favourite. The points were given out not only based on the looks of the outcome, but also by looking at the process with which the signature was created and the creativity applied to a signature to give it a “personal touch”, which I believe the winner did a really good job at.

Where are the entries?

A summary of all entries can be found in this post.

I wanted the premium membership

Don’t worry, we will have more contests in the future, I will now focus on writing some more tutorials. If you’re impatient, we would really appreciate if you purchase a premium membership, for a small price of$6 you can enjoy extra premium benefits!

On to the results!

On first place, with 8 points, the winner of the signature design contest who will be granted a Premium Membership:

Kaz, with his signature inspired by the Final Fantasy tutorial!!

Aaaaand the runner up, also recieving a Premium Membership, with 6 points:
CheesySalsa, with his signature inspired by the Timeshift Photoshop tutorial!

Honorable Mentions, nice try, keep it up:

Blade recieved 2 points:

MrPurx, recieved 1 point:

BonxFire, recieved 1 point:

Thanks for participating everyone!

You guys did a great job, I personally loved all of your entries and I cannot wait to see your entries for the upcoming contest to see how much you guys have improved. Kaz and CheesySalsa, please post a comment using a valid email adres so that we can send you your premium membership information.

Feel free to comment and give us suggestions for the next contest!

Now, about the contest!

Rules:

• Every member can enter up to 3 signatures into the contest,
• The signature has to be made inspired by a tutorial on SignatureStop. There’s plenty of great tutorials around, so this should not be a problem! Please mention which tutorial or technique was used to achieve your  result.
• Entries have to be posted in the comments below,
• Signatures have to be made by you, no ripping is allowed!
• Contest will end within 3 weeks, on the 2nd of June.

Depending on the amount of entries, up to 3 premium memberships will be given away! Winners will be picked by myself and 2 other judges. Good luck everyone, and enjoy!

Update: Entries!

AEONfire:
Entry 1
Entry 2
Entry 3

Nsta:
Entry 1
Entry 2
Entry 3

Lethal:
Entry 1
Entry 2
Entry 3

Blade:
Entry 1
Entry 2
Entry 3

BONxFire:
Entry 1

d.ban35:
Entry 1
Entry 2

Nfx:
Entry 1
Entry 2

CheesySalsa:
Entry 1

Kaz:
Entry 1
Entry 2
Entry 3

Demonic:
Entry 1

Mr Pur:
Entry 1
Entry 2

Skulltrail:
Entry 1

A very nice job so far guys, it will be hard picking a winner out of these great signatures!

Contest ended, comments will be closed.

You can continue commenting in the results posts.

Create a new file (File > New), our size was set to 420 pixels by 130 pixels.

We’re going to use a stock photo of what seems to be a building on fire. Place a stock photo somewhere on your canvas, and resize it if needed.

Paste your render somewhere on the canvas. We’re using this Full Metal Alchemist character.

We will be creating a sort of flame effect by brushing, which we will edit on to achieve a good looking result. First, you have to set your Brush opacity a little lower and turn on Airbrushing at the toolbar.

Select a light color (yellow in our case), and brush a little over your signature.

Now select Filter > Distort > Displace…:

This screen will come up. Experiment with the settings to create different outcomes. When you press OK, it will ask you for a file to displace with. Select any image you like:

If it still looks too much like the brushing, repeat it again. When you’re done displacing, Sharpen it by selecting Filter > Sharpen > Sharpen…

Outcome:

We’re going to apply an outer glow to add a flame effect to it. Select Layer > Layer Style > Outer Glow, and pick these settings:

This brings us to our outcome:

Repeat this again, add brushing:

Set the same outer glow effect:

We’re going to add some blue flames to it now. Select a light blue color, and brush softly on the signature:

Apply the same effects, Filter > Distort > Displace… (once or twice), then Filter > Sharpen > Sharpen…

Now apply this outer glow settings to it (Layer > Layer Styles > Outer Glow):

The outcome:

Now change the blending mode of the blue flames to Screen to blend it in a little:

We’re going to add a Color Balance adjustment layer. To do this, select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance. Obviously, use your own settings, ours probably won’t work on your signature. Here’s an example animation of the adjustment layer settings:

Outcome of the Color Balance layer:

We’re going to add a Black and White adjustment layer. To do so, select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Black and White (or select the ying/yang ish icon on your layer panel):

Our settings:

We’ve set the blending mode to Lighter Color:

We’re going to use the Reduce Noise function. You can also use Topaz for this. First, select Image > Apply Image:

Now select Noise > Reduce Noise, and play around until you’re satisfied:

The Reduce Noise function:

To create the good looking blue effect, select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation, and move the Hue a lot (experiment with the colors):

With the Hue changed:

We’re going to remove some of the blue effect. To do this, select the Layer Mask in the adjustment layer like shown below:

Select areas on the signature with the Elliptical marquee tool, and press delete. Optionally, you can use a splatter brush to do this:

Outcome:

Add a Gradient Map (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Gradient Map). The settings are set Black to White:

Change the blending mode to Darker Color:

Another Color Balance layer with these settings (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance):

And an exposure adjustment layer (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Exposure…). Set the opacity to 50%:

Outcome after the adjustment layers:

Now add some dots with a soft brush on your canvas to create some extra lighting effect.

Change the blending mode to Screen afterwards:

We’re going to sharpen the image. First we have to Create a new layer, then select Image > Apply Image.

Optionally you can use the Topaz filter if you have it.

We’re going to blur some sections we don’t like with a lens blur. Apply the image on a new layer:

Then select Filter > Blur > Lens Blur:

Outcome (experiment with the settings):

Erase most of it except for the parts that you want to blur (in our case, the cape and the corners):

To finish up the final coloring, add another Color Balance layer:

We’re nearly done, finish up the coloring with some more adjustment layers, experiment.

We finished with a Curves adjustment layer (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves):

This brings us to our final result:

We hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial. You can download the PSD file in the premium member section. Good Luck!

Start by creating a new file in Photoshop (File > New), our size was set to 420 pixels by 130 pixels. The first few steps will be used to create some detail in the signature, we will then continue changing colors and lighting.

Apply some sort of texture on the canvas to get some detail. Here, a cracked texture was used.

We’re going to use some splatter brushes, with a bright red color. It’s best to create new layers (CTRL + SHIFT + N) every time you brush, so you keep maximum control of the looks.

Some more splatters on a new layer with the same red bright color.

Change the blending mode of the last splattering to Multiply:

We’re going to add a cinema4d render on the signature. You can find some renders in our resources section. The render that was used can be found here.

Change the blending mode of the render to Screen:

Add your render to the signature. The good thing about this render is that we can work with his hand to create some special effect. Try finding a render that has some activity in it that you can use.

Add another render on top of character, and rotate it (CTRL + T) to follow the flow of the character (in this case, his arm):

We’ve added the same render that we’ve added a few steps back on top of the signature again, and used the eraser tool to remove some areas covering our Code Geass character.

We’re going to create a glowing sphere in her hand. Select the brush tool, and pick a decent size soft brush:

With a yellow color, tap once on top of his hand:

Apply a bright outer glow to it, with the following settings:

This is what the sphere looks like on a black background:

We will be erasing some of it to make it seem as if its inside of his hand. To make the erasing a little easier, CTRL + Click on the layer of the character. This will turn it into a selection.

Zoom in and carefully erase with a small brush, parts of the yellow sphere:

Using the smudge tool, we will be creating some sort of light flow that comes out of his hand. First, tap again with a soft brush, then use the smudge tool to create some light flow coming out between his fingers:

This is the light brushing shown on a black background:

Result shown on the signature:

Apply the same outer glow that we used earlier:

Outcome of the glowing sphere in his hand:

We’re going to make his eye color match the red background a little more. Pick a small brush, and tap on top of his eyes with a bright red color:

Set the blending mode to Color, and reduce the opacity to 80%:

Apply the image on a new layer (Image > Apply Image). Then, select Filter > Distort > Ocean Ripple:

Play around with the settings a little. This is our image with an Ocean Ripple applied:

Now erase most of it, keep some sections of the render surrounding our character, and the light sphere coming out of his hand:

Change this layers blending mode to Lighten:

We’re going to add a Color Balance adjustment layer. You should be using your own settings, as our settings probably won’t work for your signature. Here are our settings anyway to illustrate an example. To create a color balance layer, select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance:

Outcome of the color balance adjustment layer:

We don’t want the Color Balance to cover the code geass character. Click on the adjustment layer, and start brushing with darkish grey over your character:

This is our outcome:

Time to add another color to the signature. We will be using a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer for this. To create a Hue/Saturation layer, select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation…

In the adjustment layer, select Master from the dropdown menu, and move the Hue bar around.

Our outcome:

We’re going to use a splatter brush to hide some part of the Adjustment layer. Select the layer mask:

And tap with a black color on the layer. This will hide the adjustment layer:

We think the signature is a little too dark. Using another Hue/Saturation layer, we will lighten it up a little. Once again, select Master from the dropdown menu, then drag the Lightness Bar:

You should also move the saturation if this makes the signature too greyish.

Add some text to your signature. Select the eyedropper tool to pick colors from your signature:

To finnish it up, select the Dodge and Burn tool, and add some lighting.

Go crazy, use some brushing or adjustment layers if you think that finishes it. Sharpen if needed. Our final outcome:

We hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial. Premium Members can download the PSD file in the premium section. Good luck!

Start by creating a new signature, the size was set to 420pixels by 130 pixels.

We will use a spacestock as a background. Before you grab just about any picture, make sure the author has given permission for you to use it. You can find the Space Stock photo here. Resize it to fit somewhere nicely onto your canvas:

Place the Final Fantasy Render on your signature. Resize if needed:

We’re going to add some coloring. Grab a soft brush, and change the opacity and flow on the toolbar a little:

Brush toolbar:

Use the eyedropper tool to select a color on the canvas, and set it a little lighter. Brush into the direction that matches your render, in our case it follows the flow of his weapon:

Place the layer underneath the character. Optionally, you can set the blending mode to Color Dodge:

Now we’re grabbing another starry sky stock, and place this on top. You can find good Space Stock photos here.

Now change this layers’ blending mode to Lighten on your layer panel:

This should blend the stars into the background:

We’re going to be making some light beams with the elliptical marquee tool. Select the Elliptical Marquee Tool:

Make a selection somewhere near your character:

Now stroke this selection, by going Edit > Stroke, and set the color to white. Set the Width to about 3 pixels. Here are our settings:

Press OK, you should now have a white circle like selection going around:

Now apply an outer glow to this circle, by selection Layer > Layer Style > Outer Glow. Set the blend mode to Linear Dodge, and opacity to 100%, and select a bright color with the eyedropper tool:

Outcome:

We’re going to make some mor ebeams. Grab a soft brush:

And make two lines on your signature, following the flow of the character:

Apply the same Outer Glow to these lines:

Add some light brushing on top of the lines. We’re going to apply another outer glow to this to add some lighting:

Outer Glow settings ( Layer > Layer Style > Outer Glow):

This will give the beam a lighter touch. Optionally, you can set the blending mode to Color Dodge for a brighter result:

Finish up the beams, add some final glow and effects to the beams:

We’re going to use the Liquify function to create some “waves” around our character. First, Create a new layer, and apply the image (Image > Apply Image):

Now Select Filter > Liquify, and select the Forward Warp Tool in the top left corner:

Change the brush size in the top right corner to about 130 pixels, and start warping the layer to form some sort of beam:

Warp it into a shape that will fit around the character. Keep going untill you get an outcome you like:

Place the beam on your character, and erase the section covering the end of our Final Fantasy Kain character. This will make it seem as if the beam is going around our character.

Now Change this layers’ blending mode to Pin Light:

Time to fix some lighting. Apply the image on a new layer:

Now grab the burn or dodge tool, and start brushing and fixing some lighting:

Outcome:

Now we’re going to use the Liquify function once again, combined with the smudge tool to create some distortion in the bottom corner. Select the smudge tool:

Smudge, liquify warp forward tool until you like the outcome:

We’re going to apply a Selective Color. Obviously, you should select your own settings. However, here are our settings to illustrate a possible outcome. To create a selective color layer, select Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Selective Color:

Outcome:

We’re going to add some final finishing touches by applying a Color Balance adjustment Layer, and the dodge and burn tool to create some depth. First, add a color balance layer by selecting Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance:

I will not be displaying our settings, because our settings will not work unless you have the exact same colors. Just experiment with the settings.

Our outcome:

Optionally, you can use the smudge tool to distort the beam:

Add some text, finnishing touches, and you’re done!

We hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial. Premium Members will now be able to download the PSD in the Premium Section. Join Now!

Signature Tutorials

This Full Metal Alchemist signature:

Final Fantasy 4 Signature:

CodeGeass Signature:

Killzone Signature:

I hope you enjoy the sneak peak at the upcoming tutorials. If anyone has some special requests or needs support, feel free to leave a comment or Contact Us.

Resources

As of right now, the Resources section is a little poor. The only thing worth looking at are the renders, which I’ve uploaded hastily. We will be working hard to update this section and to add some sort of gallery and download system that’s easier and better for everyone. I have plenty of resources and stocks at hand, so I think they will be worth looking at. I will also be adding a Signature PSD section where people can download some nice PSD files that I’ve released in the past (and will release in the near future *hint hint*).

So make sure you come back soon for more updates, tutorials, psd files, and more! And remember, if you want to support SignatureStop, consider becoming a Premium Member for extra benefits!